Last Wednesday was day two of two, visiting Scatarie Island, easternmost land of Nova Scotia. After setting out in the zodiac at 9 am from Main-a-Dieu (an hour late, due to fog) and making a visit to Hay Island, Prof Bruce took us down to a southeast point of land on Scatarie Island Wildlife management area. We wandered around this barren headland and enjoyed the sights and sounds.
We kept on looking at the plants, in particular. This specific location was chosen by Bob, one of our members, because of a rare plant in this area. We did not find it, but many other delights were there. Including for the palate - I nibbled quite a few bakeapples and other ripe berries on the barrens. And we did see Swedish cornel - the red berries below - a very uncommon relative of bunchberry, here in NS.
Did I mention the barrens? The coastal carpets of Empetrum nigrum (black crowberry) around the edges of Scatarie make for a very open landscape, and a bed for many other woody plants and herbs to grow. Here is Bob getting a close look at something small and wonderful.
Below, on the satellite image, the red arrow shows the cove we visited. Next, Bob had planned for us to visit a couple other coves on the southern coast. But as we got back on board the zodiac, pilot Bruce pointed out that the wind was picking up from the south, and the swells from offshore were a bit strong. Not a good day to continue on that shore. So we changed plans, and headed back, past Hay Island, around the eastern end of Scatarie, and along the North shore. We ended up at Savage Cove, a beautiful stopping place. The water was much calmer in the lee of the big island.
On the way, Bruce continued to be an excellent biological and geological guide. He even piloted the little boat into a cove with a bit of a cave. The clear waters above pale stones gave the impression of the topics, but it was cool.
Savage Cove had another stony barrier beach. It made for an easy landing, and good walking. We explored the pond behind the beach, the nearby headlands, and a bog with some great plant material.
When we first peeked at the pond behind the barrier beach, two owls took off for deeper woods.
A pelagic bird that nests on maritime islands is the Leach's Storm Petrel, a bird I am well familiar with, thanks to thirty years of trips to Acadia's Bon Portage Island, Shelburne Co. We had been told they nest here on Scatarie, and sure enough, I found a body washed up on the beach. Unmistakable in size, with white rump, webbed feet, and tube nose on the beak. These birds have a remarkable life history - but that is a story for another time.
It was time to go, on this warm afternoon, and Bruce Hatcher got back in the boat after some time scuba diving and collecting seaweed samples. He talked about them, including one species that was new to him, and emptied some samples out for us to peruse. He taught us a bit about sea urchins and their enemies. His perspective on the past decade and a half is insightful. He has seen many changes - invasive species come in, various 'pests,' and so forth. Temperature changes have the most significant impact, he'd say, and I'm sure he's right.
Goodbye, Scatarie Island. I will see you again, from the shores of Main-a-Dieu and Baleine. But will I visit you again?
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